Tragedy Strikes Mount McKinley: Three Climbers Dead, One Rescued

JUNEAU, Alaska — Three climbers from a Latvian mountaineering group have died on Mount McKinley, North America’s tallest peak, as reported by the group on Friday. The incident occurred near a dangerous pass while attempting a route well-known for its risky sections. A fourth climber survived and was rescued.

The climbers were part of a team traversing a path notorious for frequent injuries and fatalities. They fell on Wednesday, according to information from the National Park Service. Mount McKinley rises 20,310 feet (6,190 meters) high. The survivor was rescued from around 17,200 feet (5,240 meters) by the Denali National Park and Preserve search and rescue team on Thursday. Due to the risky terrain, rescuers used a long line from a helicopter as landing was not feasible. The rescued climber was later taken to a hospital.

The fall happened near Denali Pass at an elevation of approximately 18,200 feet (5,550 meters). Few other details have been provided. Three remaining members of the group assisted in rescue efforts despite reportedly facing deteriorating physical conditions. These members were also evacuated on Friday.

The climbers were using the West Buttress route, a popular yet perilous path to the top. This route is marked by crevasses, steep ice, and exposed ridges, leading to many accidents over time. An area between high camp positioned at around 17,200 feet (5,240 meters) and Denali Pass is especially treacherous, often related to unprotected falls.

Park rangers and guides set up and upkeep snow pickets along the route, providing additional support on steep inclines. Known as the Autobahn, this section features a slope prone to deep snow posing avalanche threats or hard ice. Climbers may use additional pickets, though setting them in dense snow and ice can be challenging, says Clint Helander, a climber familiar with McKinley.

Helander described climbing McKinley as an endeavor involving technical challenges like intense glaciation, sudden weather shifts, and high altitude. He emphasized the need for carrying substantial gear on lengthy expeditions, noting that even the most straightforward climbs can quickly become difficult.

Approximately 1,000 to 1,200 climbers attempt to summit Mount McKinley annually, primarily during May and June. The climb typically spans about 17 days. Last year, less than half of the climbers reached the summit. Park statistics indicate over 130 climbers have died, with two fatalities reported last year. In 2012, four Japanese climbers died due to an avalanche shoving them into a crevasse.

As of Thursday, there were 516 climbers on the mountain, as stated by Scott Carr, a park service spokesperson. Separately, the park service reported two climbers not associated with the Latvian group were airlifted from the mountain on Wednesday.